The longest Christmas
For many Puerto Rican families, the season starts right after Thanksgiving and doesn't really end until mid-January. Here are the big dates:
- December 24, Nochebuena: the big family dinner, often with music and dancing late into the night.
- December 25, Navidad: Santa Claus brings presents in many homes.
- January 6, Día de Reyes: Three Kings Day. The night before, children leave grass in a shoebox under the bed for the Kings' camels, and wake up to gifts.
- After Reyes, las Octavitas: eight more days of celebrating, and in Old San Juan the season closes with the street party of the Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián.
Parrandas: the musical surprise visit
A parranda (also called an asalto) is a group of friends and family who show up at someone's door, usually late at night, with a cuatro guitar, a güiro, maracas, and whatever else makes noise. They sing aguinaldos (Christmas songs) until the door opens. The hosts bring out food and drinks, often join the group, and everyone moves on to the next house. It can go until sunrise.
The food
| Dish | What it is |
|---|---|
| pernil | Slow-roasted pork shoulder. The crispy skin, el cuerito, is the prize. |
| arroz con gandules | Rice with pigeon peas, the Christmas rice. The crispy layer at the bottom of the pot is el pegao, and people fight over it. |
| pasteles | Like tamales, but the dough is grated green banana and root vegetables, wrapped in plantain leaves and boiled. Unwrap it first: don't eat the leaf. |
| morcilla | Blood sausage, often served as an appetizer. |
| tembleque | A wobbly coconut pudding dusted with cinnamon. |
| arroz con dulce | Sweet coconut rice pudding with ginger and cinnamon. |
| coquito | Coconut eggnog with rum. Every family says theirs is the best, and you should agree. |
Etiquette that makes a great impression
- Greet everyone individually, with a kiss on the cheek for women and a handshake or hug for men. Do it again when you leave.
- Listen for ¡Bendición! Younger family members often greet their parents and grandparents by asking for a blessing, and the elder answers Dios te bendiga. If your partner does it, you can too. Grandparents love it.
- Tú comes quickly in many Puerto Rican families, but start with usted with parents and grandparents until they tell you otherwise (more on usted and tú).
- Say yes to dancing. Salsa, plena, and bomba will come out. Laugh at yourself and keep going.
- Bring something: a dessert, a bottle, or a small gift for the host.
Phrases for the season
New Year's and Three Kings Day
At midnight on New Year's Eve you may see people eat twelve grapes for twelve wishes, and throw a bucket of water out of the window or door to wash away the bad luck of the old year. On January 5, help the kids cut grass for the Kings' camels. It's one of the sweetest traditions of the season.
Spending Christmas in Puerto Rico?
Start with the 10 rescue phrases for when the parranda gets loud, plus a checklist counting down to the 24th.
- All 10 rescue phrases as a PDF, with pronunciation
- A week-by-week checklist for your date
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What is a parranda in Puerto Rico?
A musical surprise visit: friends arrive at someone's home late at night with instruments, singing Christmas songs until they're let in. The hosts serve food and drinks, then often join the group for the next house.
When do Puerto Ricans open Christmas presents?
Many families open presents from Santa on December 25, and children get gifts from the Three Kings on January 6, Día de Reyes.
What is coquito?
A Puerto Rican coconut eggnog made with coconut milk, condensed milk, spices, and rum. It's served cold in small glasses all season.
What does Bendición mean?
It's how many Puerto Ricans greet parents and grandparents, asking for their blessing. The answer is Dios te bendiga, God bless you.