What to expect
- December 7, Día de las Velitas: the unofficial start of Christmas. Families light candles and paper lanterns outside their homes at night. If you're there, you'll be handed a candle.
- December 16–24, la Novena de Aguinaldos: nine nights of short prayers, carols (villancicos), maracas and tambourines, often rotating between relatives' homes, with snacks after. You're welcome even if you're not religious. Sit with the family and join in the singing when you can.
- December 24, Nochebuena: the main night. Dinner is late, and gifts are opened at midnight. In many families they're brought by el Niño Dios (baby Jesus) rather than Santa.
The food
| Dish | What it is |
|---|---|
| buñuelos | Golden fried cheese dough balls. You'll eat a lot of them. |
| natilla | A soft, sweet, cinnamon custard, cut into squares. Always served with buñuelos. |
| hojuelas | Thin fried pastry dusted with sugar. |
| lechona | Whole roast pig stuffed with rice and peas, a Tolima classic. |
| ajiaco | Bogotá's chicken and potato soup, with capers, cream, and corn. |
| tamales | Colombian tamales are wrapped in plantain leaves and much bigger than Mexican ones. |
Etiquette that makes a great impression
- Greet everyone individually when you arrive and when you leave. Women usually greet with one kiss on the right cheek; men usually shake hands.
- Use usted with parents and grandparents. Colombians use it a lot, and it sounds warm, not cold. (More on usted and tú.)
- Join the novena. You don't need to know the words. Holding a song sheet and trying is what matters.
- Accept the dance. Someone will pull you up to dance salsa or vallenato. Say yes, and laugh at yourself.
- Bring something: a dessert, a bottle, or a small gift for the host.
Phrases for the season
New Year's Eve
December 31 has its own traditions, and you'll probably be invited to join: eating twelve grapes at midnight for twelve wishes, wearing yellow underwear for luck, and walking around the block with an empty suitcase if you want to travel in the new year. Many families also burn an año viejo, a stuffed doll representing the old year.
Spending Christmas in Colombia?
Start with the 10 rescue phrases for when the novena gets fast, plus a checklist counting down to the 24th.
- All 10 rescue phrases as a PDF, with pronunciation
- A week-by-week checklist for your date
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Familia Ready turns their real names, their food, and your story into a short Spanish countdown timed to the day you see them. 10–15 minutes a day, made for beginners.
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What is the Novena de Aguinaldos?
Nine nights of short prayers and carols from December 16 to 24, usually with family and neighbors, followed by food like buñuelos and natilla. Guests are welcome to join in.
When do Colombians open Christmas presents?
At midnight on December 24, Nochebuena. In many families the gifts come from el Niño Dios, baby Jesus.
What is Día de las Velitas?
December 7, when families light candles and lanterns at night to start the Christmas season, on the eve of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.
What does qué pena mean in Colombia?
It usually means sorry or how embarrassing, not what a pity. ¡Qué pena con usted! is a polite apology.